So my internal keyboard seems to be stuck on to only type caps. The keys are not physically stuck. I also had an issue with the sound and backlight, but upon opening up the macbook pro I found that the two ribbons were loose. I placed them back into the connector as snug as possible. Worked great for the night I come back and the sound works and backlight but the keyboard problem arose again. Any Ideas on where the problem is, could it possibly be the logic board itself or just the keyboard ribbon?Chris. So my internal keyboard seems to be stuck on to only type caps.
The keys are not physically stuck. I also had an issue with the sound and backlight, but upon opening up the macbook pro I found that the two ribbons were loose. I placed them back into the connector as snug as possible. Worked great for the night I come back and the sound works and backlight but the keyboard problem arose again.
Any Ideas on where the problem is, could it possibly be the logic board itself or just the keyboard ribbon?Himarsha. Mbp 13.3 Mid 2011 won't power up.
Batt check on side is working indicates fully charged. Macsafe is good.
Red to green when charging. Away rotation ucla olive view maximum card. Front led blinks once when power button is pressed.
Upgraded to 250 ssd and 18gb ram. Worked super fast last 14 mos.
Then one day made 3 beeps repeatedly. Won't shut off on normal shut off press so held power button down for reboot. Never powered up since. Tried 'disconnect batt cable, and pressing down power button for 10 sec, connect macsafe cable while holding down pwer for additional 10 sec. Then power up normally - nothing. Any way to fix this?
Apple says replace motherboard but priced at 2/3 of mbp. Loosing hope. Any help ou there?
Thx in advance.Powerbook Medic. @Powerbook medic,Hi guys,thanks for your last message.I managed to get the serial number which is: C02H555HDV13When Searching for the parts, I can see there are 2 possible processor for that logic board, the 2.5ghz i5 and the 2.8ghz i7. I don't have the computer yet as my friend is driving to see me next week, but in the meantime if I like to save time and order the part, is there any way he could see which one it is from taking the back cover off ( and without taking the logic boar apart )Once again, your help is highly appreciated.thanksPowerbook Medic. I know that a picture is worth a thousand words, however, when you start the project PLEASE show or list the tools necessary to perform the operation.
PH1 or a J0 phillips).especially the trefoil (sic) screwdriver size. Don't just quickly show it on the screen. Finally, the connectors should be carefully shown and explained on how to SAFELY remove them without damaging them. There are three (3) that come to mind on the mother board (Logic Board) that if not properly handled can damage the ribbon cable or connector for that matter. Some of us do have fat fingers and need to be reminded to be gentle and shown the proper technique in handling the different types of friction connectors when disconnecting and re-connecting etc. Otherwise, the Video was nicely done. Oh, before I forget a higher resolution 1080p would have been nice.fernando.
I have a macbook pro 13.3 inch i7. Its trackpad and keyboard suddenly stopped working.
Also its bluetooth is showing a cross and no usb mouse is working on it too. I used to encounter this problem earlier also but opening its bottom cover and closing it solved it several times. Now nothing is working. Last night, I was embarrassed as it was not working, I left it on charging, when I came back after dinner, everything was working fine, but after some time it was back to the problem. Since then I have tried many things and nothing worked.I hope you can help me.
We've had a liquid spill.I've removed batt; HD (it's OK as you might have expected). I've cleaned back of logic board with denatured alcohol and allowed it all to dry. Here's my question - should I remove logic board to clean THAT side or shall I try powering it up first?
I've got a feeling the board may be fried but I wanted to at least try it. If it's worth removing logic board to clean I will. Does liquid destroy the paste on the chips side of the board? Your videos are great and if I need a board I will use you guys for having this help available. It's a early 2011 model of 13' Macbook Pro with the 2.4GHz chip. Thanks!Powerbook Medic. Hi PBM I've got a couple of Q's if I may.
I have a MB Pro 13 mid 2009 2.26 duo core 2 and last year I had to change to topcase as I damaged my keyboard with cleaner. I believe it was from a 2010 MB Pro and thanks to you great video I took it apart and put it back together. All works except the caps lock light so have I missed something?Secondly I need to replace my battery as its now gets to 17% and shuts off. Is it just a straight swap for a new battery and would I have to reset the SMC?Thirdly (sorry)Can I upgrade my logic board to the 2.53 or 2.66 Duo core 2 or is the 2.53 the max please.Many thanksPowerbook Medic. Hi,I bought a second hand 13' Macbook Pro A1278 that is working fine; however it seems to have an earthing issue especially when it has charged and the green LED on the connector is showing.
There is a buzzing, 'rubbery' sensation when touching the unit. This is not what one would expect from a supposedly double insulated device.The AC adapter I was given with the Macbook does not have an earth pin; the button where the adapter head slides in, is plastic. The adapter is marked as a replacement AC adapter A1184.Is this the right one?I am in Australia where all wall outlets are earthed.Powerbook Medic. My 13.3' macbook pro A1278's stopped charging (when connected to power adapter led light was flashing yellow and green) and battery slowly died. After that the charger's adapter was either not turning on at all or flashing green and yellow, but computer failed to turn on. I changed magsafe board, and now I get solid green led light, but computer does not turn on at all. I accidently ripped a cable on the right, that connects to the battery power meter.
Could it be the problem? Or my motherboard is dead? What are these 2 ribbon cables on the left side - just on the top of the battery? They are extremaly hard to put back.
Could it explain why my computer is not starting?Paul. I own a 15' unibody mac pro (mid-2009) and the display has started to play up (intermittent vertical lines, roughly an inch in width in one area of my display, roughly 13cm from the right of the LCD) The staff and the Genius Bar said the LVDS cable had to be replaced, and then he said in order to replace this cable an entire new LCD screen was needed! Is this a correct statement from the Apple store? Its rather frustrating as a University student to pay$1000 for a new LCD when my Mac is only 100 days outside of its Warranty.Any help would greatly be appreciated, Thankyou!connect. Dear Powerbook medic,After a small spill some keys are not working on my MBP 13'.
I have accepted defeat and plan on taking it to the local dealer in order for it to be sent for repairs. Its over a year old so no warranty (just biting the bullet and paying) but wanted to ask how much a new keyboard fit usually costs?Further more wanted to enquire about how you can tell if the 'logic board' is potentially broken? The MBP works fine apart from certain buttons not responding (checked using the on board programme thing which demonstrates which buttons are being pushed).Sorry if this is a silly question im not very tech savy and want to make sure that im not in for a very exspensive repair.Good work on your vids and thanks in advance for advice you can provide.Toh from the UKPowerbook Medic.
Your profile was created when you were using 10.5.8, I hope that since then you have upgraded to 10.6.8 or above.-Troubleshooting: My computer won't turn onSymptomsIf your Macintosh computer won't turn on, here's how to troubleshoot it. Reset SMC For 'Mac wont' turn on or boot' and relatedNote: It is possible that the SMC could encounter an issue that may cause unusual system behavior typically related to the symptoms described below. In some cases, resetting the SMC may be the only correct method to resolve the issue,General purpose Mac troubleshooting guide:Creating a temporary user to isolate user-specific problems:Identifying resource hogs and other tips:Starting the computer in 'safe mode':To identify potential hardware problems:General Mac maintenance. Be sure you backup your files to an external drive or second internal drive becausethe following procedure will remove everything from the hard drive.About TimeMachine backups and Recovery ModeOS X Lion and later let you:Start from using your Time Machine backup disk. With OS X v10.7.3 and later, Time Machine backs up the Recovery System on your Mac to your backup drive as well.
This lets you use your Time Machine drive to start up your Mac if needed.OS X Recovery:-Reset SMCResetting NVRAM. Safe Mac Guide(MacPerformanceGuide is also an excellent web site for ideas on upgrades and optimizing for application type uses))Mac OS X: Starting up in Safe Mode -What is Safe Boot, Safe Mode?
Mac A1278 Leds Blinking Quicky Not Turn On Ipad
I am this exact issue today.I hear no chimes at all, just a constant flashing light approximately 2 per second with no breaks in the pattern what so ever so there is nothing to count for a specific pattern. I tried some tof the various key combos at startup from Apple docs but nothing will get it to startup or get to a startup screen. I do feel some air flow so it appears the fan is on. I can't eject the drive bay to startup from a DVD. All the ram has been working in this for quite a while. It was working fine the other day and quite distressing as it's my main recording studio computer and I have a session in two days. Any other ideas to try?TIA, CraigLate 2008 Mac Pro 3.1, 8 core 2.8GHZ 28 GB ram 6 internal HDs.OS10.8.5 is the default startup HD and there is another 10.6.8 startup on another internal HD.
I have 28GB of ram in there now all 8 slots are used. Six 4GB and two 2GB modules DDR2 6400 800 mhz and all have lifetime warranty. I did a memory test maybe 3 weeks ago and all passed then with Techtool pro. It seems like they all could not have failed and there should still be enough working ram in there to start up or is that not the case?
If only one or two failed shouldn't I still be able to startup or would that affect all of of them in some way and hinder startup? Would the thing to do to be just start removing modules and and try starting up see if one of them is the culprit? Four of the modules were added about 2 months ago maybe I should start with those?Grant Bennet-Alder wrote:approximately 2 per secondThat IS a deliberate pattern, as opposed to random flashes of arbitrary duration.That indicates 'not enough working RAM to start up'. If you were to remove all the RAM, you should get a very similar symptom, although the pattern may change slightly. Apple Footer.This site contains user submitted content, comments and opinions and is for informational purposes only. Apple may provide or recommend responses as a possible solution based on the information provided; every potential issue may involve several factors not detailed in the conversations captured in an electronic forum and Apple can therefore provide no guarantee as to the efficacy of any proposed solutions on the community forums. Apple disclaims any and all liability for the acts, omissions and conduct of any third parties in connection with or related to your use of the site.
All postings and use of the content on this site are subject to the.
Bad hard driveThe hard drive may have been erased, corrupted, or damaged. If the hard drive has been erased, format it as HFS+ and reinstall your operating system back onto it. If it is corrupted or damaged, you need to it. Photoshop elements vs.
Failing hard drives can display intermittent data corruption prior to failing completely. They often gradually get louder and start to click. If your hard drive is making abnormal clicking noises but still works, back up your data immediately and replace the hard drive. Any of our will work in your computer. Ports/AudioIf you lose USB or ethernet, the only thing to blame is the logic board.
Because there are many components of the logic board, many possible symptoms indicate logic board failure. Any one of these components can fail and leave the others intact. If you lose the use of another component of your computer, such as the display, battery, or even power, and replacing the apparently non-working part didn't fix the problem, it is possible that the logic board may need to be replaced (see above).
I've noticed a number of 'My Macbook Pro won't turn on' posts here, but my symptoms seem to be different (read: worse) than the other posts that I've read, such as this.Here's what's going on:I have an A1226 15' MacBook Pro (mid 2007) with serial number: W872218YX92. I can't get it to turn on; whether it's plugged into the AC adapter or on a battery, I get no visible or audible response from the machine when I push the power button-none of the lights turn on, none of the fans spin, etc.I've read about the, but I don't get any response from the machine at all, so I'm not sure if that's what the problem is. The other thing I've read could be at fault is the ', but this thing won't turn on when using AC or a battery. One thing I haven't tried yet is to open it up and check the top cover power switch; is the power switch something that frequently breaks?Lastly, when the MagSafe adapter is plugged into the machine, the LED on it always glows green-whether or not the battery is plugged in. When the battery is plugged in, the 'charging' LEDs on it do not light up or blink and thus the battery does not charge. Hi!I'm having the exact same problem after reflowing my logic board.But I found a way to always make it boot.- Unplug the battery.- Unplug the magsafe power cable.- Hold down the powerbutton for about 10 sec and continue to do that.- While still holding the powerbutton down, insert the magsafe power cable and hold it for another 10 sec.- Release the powerbutton after those 10 sec and make a 'normal' press as if you would normallyturn on your computer.If that doesn't work then try to remove one RAM memory and switch places and do the method that I told you. Hello All,I just wanted to follow up with everyone and post the solution that worked for me.
I just noticed @Victor Clausson's answer today, even though it was posted a few months ago, but what he's describing was exactly the issue I was running into. I was using a 60W MacSafe adaptor from my 2011 13' Macbook Pro to try to power the machine in question on. Since the battery was completely dead, 60W was not enough to start the machine up. Once I used an 85W MacSafe adaptor, the machine powered up fine.par. Remove completely the top case (unplug it) and try to boot the machine directly from the logic board. Search for the power icon (same as the one on your power button) on the logic board, near the icon there should be two small solder pads.
Just briefly bridge the two pads with a small jeweler flat screwdriver (ac adapter must be connected). If the machine power on then your top case power button could be faulty, if not then the DC in board (or the logic board) could be the problem.Here's a pict from a macbook logic board.
Search for the same power icon on yours or PWR letters. Hi, i found an old macbook pro a1226 and have not been able to start it up.i plug the magsafe green light turns on then hit power, No response on the screen, however the fans start up inside making noise as if it is on.I have tried without the battery as well.still no response.Any way to help me out would be greatly appreciated.if this can't be fixed was hoping to remove the intel core 2 duo processor and replace the core duo from my old iMac and upgrade it.Anyone know if this swap can be done? I also have a 2007 A1226 and had the same problem. It turned out to be the logic board. I am a certified technician so was able to diagnose it myself.
After trying the hard reset (removing battery and unplugging from power, holding the power button down for 30 seconds, replacing battery into its place and plugging it back into power) and getting nowhere, I ordered a used and guaranteed working board from eBay for about $119.00, my Macbook Pro was back up and running with no more issues. I am still using it. In fact, I just upgraded the RAM to 4GB and it doubled the speed. Chances are, your logic board is bad. Did you find a solution? I have the same problems as above.
The SMC reset does not solve my issue. Everytime I do the SMC reset, the computer's Power on button is non functional. Only wayI can get to the OS is the trick Victor Said. Once Im in, the backlight on the keyboard, the power charger, and battery indicator show NO LED's. The fans are blowing out tremendously.
There is No battery in the icons at the top of the screen either. My battery was severely wearing down and would only last 15 minutes off the charger max before this happened. I plugged a 60 watt charger into my macbook pro and thats when the problems started.
Although, I have plugged my macbook pro into 60w chargers often but when the battery was in better condition. I took the computer to Apple store and they say it is 'vintage' and they cant fix it for the flat rate. They diagnosed it but all it says is the computer is not reading the fans, the sensors, or the battery.par. None of this has worked for me. When I try the reset with battery and power out of it and then replug power while button is held in, the fans go wild but nothing else. When I try battery and power out of it, hold power down for 10 seconds, replug Magsafe and battery back in,and try to start it, I hear the optical drive spin once but nothing else. The battery shows fully charged.I guess my only other option is to disassemble it and see what happened.
I think an 85W power supply I had for it that was not from Apple directly, may have done something to it. It seemed awfully warm during the charge process; however, the battery does show charged. That same power supply sparks when I go to connect the Magsafe to the computer. I just hope I didn't fry the board.
You wouldn't happen to be using a third party battery by any chance? I have the same issues with being unable to start up, but I also have issues sleeping and fully shutting down. Most of my issues started about the same time I started using a third party battery (Anker I believe). I have an early 2008, which will not run without a battery, so I have no way to test my hypothesis that the battery is somehow not charging the PRAM battery properly. I have tried replacing the PRAM battery, and for a very short while it seemed as though the problem was fixed.
But it returned after a few restarts. I'm thinking that there was something special about the Apple batteries that properly charged the PRAM battery, and that 3rd party batteries fail in this shortly after purchase. Otherwise, by 3rd party battery seems to function fine. Better actually than the original Apple one.par. As a footnote to the non-OEM battery issue, I work with computers on a daily basis and am finding many of the cheap batteries that you get from eBay just plain don't work right.
It doesn't seem to matter what device you try them on. There must be some type of sensor built into the wiring that the BIOS picks up and determines if the computer should go through its normal boot up sequence.
I tried a non-OEM battery on a touch screen pad made by HP, and all of a sudden the touch screen wouldn't work. I took the battery out and put the original back in, and it started working again. So I think you may be onto something there. You can still shop for the batteries for less money, but try to get the OEM ones as they are the ones that the machine is designed to use.par. Thanks i found out that i was using a 60w magsafe instead of 85w probably i got my mothers one instead.:( i coul eventough start it doing the pressing start button and plugin the 60w magsafe but the funtionalitty was erroneous, no wify no bluetooth shutted down suddenly fans full spin.
Finally i plugged my 85w magsafe and started normally. The battery is dead so im waiting for the new one. I hope that the logic board didnt suffer too much when i booted it with the 60w magsafe. When i booted it normally with the 85w one i noticed that some projects in ableton live werent going as fluid and it seemed like a loose in processor.
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Mac A1278 Leds Blinking Quicky Not Turn On Mac
It also shuted down as if there were cuts in the energy coming from the magsafe. Some kind of weird thing. I hope that everything stabilizes wth the new bat.
Thanks for the info in general! Power button won't work, so i disconnected the battery and it powered back on, however when i shut off the macbook, i realized i had to do the same thing again, coz the power button not working, so i had to disconnect the battery and it turned on again, i did this about 3x and now my macbook won't start at all, when connecting the power cord i have an orange color showing and after awhile it eventually turned to green, there is a small strip of lights located on the left side of macbook, when i press the little circled button, it lights up green. Can someone tell me if they had the same problem, if so, is it my power cord? Do i need to change to 85 w, if so please explain, and if not would you happen to know what the problem is? I never dropped nor slipped a drink on my laptop, it was working fine, then one day, it just doesn't want to respond the way it should.heeelllllpppp???
Are you having problems with your MacBook, Mac mini or iMac? Have you tried SMC and PRAM resets? If not, it’s worth trying. These magic resets can often fix simple software and hardware issues. They certainly can’t hurt and they just might help.
Sounds technical.SMC, or System Management Controller, is a low-level function that does more or less what it says, it manages system controllers. Straight forward enough for you?It regulates various hardware functions, mostly those related to power and power consumption. Problems with a fan spinning too high, LED indicators not working, sleep/wake issues, sensors not reading and a whole host of other problems, can all be solved with an SMC reset.
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